Monday 14 December 2009

Fashion Moment-Shoulder Pads


Are we taking hints from Margaret Thatcher in this time of economic crisis and latching onto her form of ‘armory’ in her power stages? The eighties are back in the limelight. We’re having a power dressing moment.

From Schiaparelli letting shoulder pads push their way down her catwalk in 1931 stuffed with sawdust, the 40’s and 50’s allowing pads to be transferred from jackets to dresses and the 60’s the age of flower power but trend-setters wanted high glamour and futuristic looks. Shown by Barbara Hulanickis shouldered fur coat and the rise of Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ jacket making shoulders for the sirens. The 70’s were all about volume. Ossi Clarke and Bill Gibb enhanced their romantic floral’s with a sneaky shoulder pad.

1980’s saw shoulders grow in width, ’they were so wonderful, I bow down to the monstrous women in the 80’s that wore big shoulders’ says style guru Peter York on the influence of shoulders. Bianca Jagger married Mick Jagger in a white tuxedo jacket with nothing underneath it, the only accessory needed: statement shoulders. New Romantic Adam Ant stole the shoulder pad for his 18th-century ‘highwayman meets tribal space hunk’ look and recalls a 4am phone call from the King of Pop Michael Jackson demanding to know where they were from.
Every female of the 80’s jumped with joy at their weekly dose of cult soap opera Dynasty and tried to emulate the shoulder definition of Joan Collins and Linda Evans. By the end of the era some shoulder pads were big enough to eat our dinner from.

The revival is on; exaggerated shoulders are the dare-to-wear statement of the season. Dolce & Gabbana's spring/summer 2009 collection took new heights, intent on adding volumes of fabric to our shoulders in cartoon like forms. Balmain embellished their slender shoulder pads with crystals that might have been called upon Michael Jackson, circa 1982.
Shoulder pads have been tried and tested throughout the twentieth century, paying attention to a physical asset that tends to be ignored. With John Lewis having to restock its £1.35 shoulder pads it seems there not only making a comeback they are actually selling out.

Obama's Girl's

A new trend is emerging. Showing support for your favourite candidate by making sure you mark your voting slip is no longer enough. Barrack Obama has occurred support in a very different way.
‘I got a crush on Obama’ is an internet viral video posted on Youtube by model Amber Lee Ettinager, images of her dancing seductively around Obama in a bikini has become one of the biggest internet hits to date.
Singing ‘I’ve never wanted anyone more than you...baby you’re the best candidate’. Has caused huge publicity and she’s even been interviewed on shows like ‘Saturday Night Live’

Last week another ‘Obama girl’ was born. Chinese student Wang Zifei attended a speech by Barack Obama in her hometown in Shangai. Zifei simply caught on camera taking her red coat off behind Obama has had more than 6.9 million internet results showing and forums started about the young student.
The Shanghai Jiaotong University graduate was forced to quell the online heat building up over her attractive appearance on her own personal blog saying "I kept a professional posture because I knew that the meeting would be broadcast worldwide, and we students' images represented our school and our country."

When asked on the female attention Obama says ‘"It's just one more example of the fertile imagination of the Internet. More stuff like this will be popping up all the time." However he did mention that the Youtube videos had upset his daughter’s ‘You do wish people would think
about what impact their actions have on kids and families."

Royal Collage of Art 'Newgen' exhibition.

Royal College of art is celebrating its 60th anniversary by displaying highlights from the 2008 Fashion MA graduates' final collections. Since the degree began its launched fashion talent such as Ossie Clark, Boudicca, Julien Macdonald and more recently, Erdem Moralioglu.
The display will feature fifty five outfits as well as accessories and sketchbooks from twenty seven young designers. Throughout the exhibition the running themes are bold graphic prints, abstract shapes in contrasting colours, big knitwear and manipulation of the female form.

Highlights of the exhibition include Lisa Hjelm, who says ‘exhibiting at the V&A is a huge honor and just sums up my amazing time spent at Royal college of art’. Her designs are influenced by crystals made up of vicose panels in contrasting colours on a bodycon silhouette. Abbie Shaw ‘s collaboration with RCA jewellery students offers oversized jewellery in cut perspex and tweed dresses with exaggerated zips alongside accentuated hips. Heikki Salonen experiments with digital prints, pixilated images, atmospheric colour palette and images lifted directly from album art of 80’s rock band, ’The Cure’.

Every year approximately 3000 new designers try to make it on the London fashion scene, competing against the odds to try and make their innovative designs stand proud against the established. Overall it’s a cohesive and exciting collection; it’s open until January 31st and defiantly worth a look.

(Abbie Shaw)