Monday 14 December 2009

Fashion Moment-Shoulder Pads


Are we taking hints from Margaret Thatcher in this time of economic crisis and latching onto her form of ‘armory’ in her power stages? The eighties are back in the limelight. We’re having a power dressing moment.

From Schiaparelli letting shoulder pads push their way down her catwalk in 1931 stuffed with sawdust, the 40’s and 50’s allowing pads to be transferred from jackets to dresses and the 60’s the age of flower power but trend-setters wanted high glamour and futuristic looks. Shown by Barbara Hulanickis shouldered fur coat and the rise of Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ jacket making shoulders for the sirens. The 70’s were all about volume. Ossi Clarke and Bill Gibb enhanced their romantic floral’s with a sneaky shoulder pad.

1980’s saw shoulders grow in width, ’they were so wonderful, I bow down to the monstrous women in the 80’s that wore big shoulders’ says style guru Peter York on the influence of shoulders. Bianca Jagger married Mick Jagger in a white tuxedo jacket with nothing underneath it, the only accessory needed: statement shoulders. New Romantic Adam Ant stole the shoulder pad for his 18th-century ‘highwayman meets tribal space hunk’ look and recalls a 4am phone call from the King of Pop Michael Jackson demanding to know where they were from.
Every female of the 80’s jumped with joy at their weekly dose of cult soap opera Dynasty and tried to emulate the shoulder definition of Joan Collins and Linda Evans. By the end of the era some shoulder pads were big enough to eat our dinner from.

The revival is on; exaggerated shoulders are the dare-to-wear statement of the season. Dolce & Gabbana's spring/summer 2009 collection took new heights, intent on adding volumes of fabric to our shoulders in cartoon like forms. Balmain embellished their slender shoulder pads with crystals that might have been called upon Michael Jackson, circa 1982.
Shoulder pads have been tried and tested throughout the twentieth century, paying attention to a physical asset that tends to be ignored. With John Lewis having to restock its £1.35 shoulder pads it seems there not only making a comeback they are actually selling out.

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